Even the name of the collection of timepieces says it best – Patrimony. As one of watchmaking’s most historic Maisons, Vacheron Constantin is an expert player when it comes to the heritage game. Its longevity is its currency, not only ensuring a rich mine of savoir faire passed on and built on from generation to generation, but also cementing its place as one of watchmaking’s ‘holy trinity’ – a trio not to be trifled with. And it is this patrimony, this inheritance, which makes it such a safe pair of hands when it comes to immortalising the heritage of others, too.
In a first-time collaboration with a retailer on a Middle East exclusive timepiece, Vacheron Constantin has taken up with Mr Porter and Net-A-Porter on a pair of region-specific timepieces. An expansion of the Patrimony collection, this elegant and contemporary pair marks a new chapter in the manufacture’s relationship with the GCC.
“Vacheron Constantin is honoured to dedicate a new timeless signature of the Patrimony collection to our clients in the Middle East, celebrating the long-standing relationship between the Maison and the region that has existed since the very beginning of the 19th century,” says Christophe Ramel, Middle East brand director at Vacheron Constantin.
The collaboration is proving valuable for the retail partners too. After all, claiming exclusivity on a limited edition run of just 80 pieces – 50 of the 40mm and 30 of the 36.5mm – is quite the scoop.
“Vacheron Constantin is one of the most celebrated Swiss watchmakers and we are honoured to collaborate with them on two elegant and exclusive Middle East edition timepieces,” says Dominic Weir, managing director fine watches & jewelry for Net-A-Porter and Mr Porter. “We are excited to offer this watch in a very limited run for local customers who will appreciate its bespoke design which speaks to the traditions and tastes of this important region in a vibrant and stylish way.”
So are they worth the hype? GMT GCC takes a closer look into the heart of a potential modern classic.
Body
A masterclass in subtle elegance, there’s a reason why the Patrimony collection, in its deliberate minimalism, is so enduring. The 18 carat gold case, highly polished and flowing gracefully into a pair of slim lugs, carries a breezy, 1950s-style elegance that’s just the opposite of try-hard. A transparent caseback adds interest for the connoisseur, with the 40mm version making the most of its uninterrupted high polish, and the 36.5mm enjoying the sparkle of 69 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel – and one on the crown for good measure. But there’s yet one more layer of meaning here – the barely-there engraved rail circling this timepiece’s bezel recalls the very jewel in Vacheron Constantin’s crown: the 1755 pocket watch held in its heritage collection, bearing the signature J.M. Vacheron on its movement. It’s the only known watch identifying the Maison’s founder Jean-Marc Vacheron by his first name, and the earliest example of his craftsmanship. And it, too, is perfectly circular with a subtly ringed bezel. As is often the case with such pronounced simplicity, there is so much more than meets the eye.
Heart
As with every timepiece that leaves the Vacheron Constantin manufacture, these timepieces bear the Poinçon de Geneve – the Geneva Seal – which, since 1886, has stood as a symbol of excellency in watchmaking, right down to the tiniest component of each timepiece’s movement. Machining marks are removed, and instead intricate polishing adorns the surfaces, while any holes are bevelled to smooth perfection. The proprietary Vacheron Constantin calibre 2450 Q6 is the very essence of what the Poinçon de Geneve aims to achieve. It may be a fairly standard self-winding hour, minute, central seconds and date window movement, but it’s executed with such outstanding finesse that a transparent caseback is simply a must. The 22 carat gold openworked oscillating weight, inspired by the Maltese cross, is so stunning that it would be a crime to let this level of craftsmanship lie undiscovered.
Features
When it comes to the Patrimony collection, simplicity is key – even in its adornments. In a subtle nod to the Arabian Gulf’s maritime history, the appliqué hour markers are separated by a dainty white dotted minute track – their form and sheen reminiscent of the pearls which once sustained the region’s economy. And then there’s the date window – in a first for the collection, the date numbers appear in Arabic, a pleasingly familiar touch for anyone who makes the Peninsula their home. As for the deep, velvety green of the sunburst dial and matching alligator strap, it’s yet another first for the collection, rich, earthy and soothing to the eye.
Soul
To those with only a passing knowledge of the Middle East, it’s a common misconception that the region is all about excess. And with the advent of Netflix show Dubai Bling as well as a reputation for seven-star luxe and gold-leaf burgers, it’s understandable. But those with a more intimate relationship with the Gulf can appreciate the subtle, understated beauty that stirs beneath: an appreciation for heritage, history and craftsmanship that has always been a part of local culture. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle East Limited Edition may not be full of bells and whistles – but it doesn’t need to be. Like a night spent under the desert stars, or a dive into the silence of the Arabian Gulf, its beauty is in its simplicity. And that’s heritage which really will be passed down to the next generation.
Tech Specs
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle East Limited Edition – 36.5mm
- Case: 18 carat white gold set with 68 diamonds, diamond set crown, transparent case back
- Size: 36.5mm, 9.15mm thick
- Movement: Self-winding Vacheron Constantin manufacture calibre 2450 Q6/3 with 40-hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH
- Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
- Dial: Green sunburst finish, convex external zone with ‘pearl’ minute track
- Strap: Green alligator leather with 18 carat white gold ardillon buckle
- Limited series of 30
- Price: Dhs132,752
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Middle East Limited Edition – 40mm
- Case: 18 carat white gold, transparent case back
- Size: 40mm, 8.55mm thick
- Movement: Self-winding Vacheron Constantin manufacture calibre 2450 Q6/3 with 40-hour power reserve, 28,800 VPH
- Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
- Dial: Green sunburst finish, convex external zone with ‘pearl’ minute track
- Strap: Green alligator leather with 18 carat white gold ardillon buckle
- Limited series of 50
- Price: Dhs110,000
