The world of watches is wide, expansive and, some may argue, saturated with big names that make up the unchanging tiers of its timepieces. That said, every now and then an exciting independent name emerges that is looking to rewrite the horological rules, as buyers both new and established seek out a level of individuality and character that bigger brands simply can’t risk.
Case in point? Gagà Laboratorio. The brainchild of Ruben Tomella, the man behind the 20-year-pedigree brand Gagà Milano, his new venture is set to redefine what it means to create a modern timepiece by merging artistry and technical expertise with just a touch of the eccentricity his watches are well known for. Fun fact: The term Gagà refers to the dandy or gentlemen-like lifestyle of Italians in the 1920s and 1930s, defining an elegant personal style by breaking with conformity and trends. “I am creative and ambitious,” Ruben tells GMT GCC. “I always need new stimuli to bring my creativity to life, and I simply had the desire to create a product that would position itself in a higher-end and more niche market than Gagà Milano.”
An idea originally conceived in 2020, Tomella took it upon himself to leverage the expertise of Manufacture Gagà SA, the company that has been designing and producing his high-end watches since 2012, to embark on an exciting new venture into Swiss watchmaking. Joining forces with avid watch collector, legendary tattoo artist and close friend Mo Coppoletta, who is responsible for the creative direction of the brand, the pair debuted their first collection this September after two years of development. “Mo and I have known each other for many years; we are friends, and he is the one who created the new Gagà logo in 2014,” Ruben tells us. “He knows my story, my ideas and my tastes, and I was confident that he had perfectly interpreted my project and what I wanted to communicate. He has a great passion for everything beautiful in life.”
Indeed, Mo’s passions — and talents — extend well beyond the intricate tattoos that this multi-threat designer and creative director is so well known for. With his personal image perhaps the furthest from how one might imagine a tattoo artist — think impeccable tailoring and louche, old-school style in lieu of grungy casual — he’s a cigar-smoking, celeb hob-nobbing master of sublime design. We’ve seen his work before in the watchmaking world, thanks to his collaborations with Bvlgari on the tattoo-etched Aria, Acqua and Fuoco Octo Finissimo models. And his knowledge of horology goes further than just their outer appearance — his place on the 2023 GPHG Jury is testament to his deep understanding of the industry. As such, the culmination of his loves and abilities are on full show in the debut Gagà Laboratorio collection.
The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic line is all about bold, avant-garde timepieces, however this time around they have a more traditional edge with a stronger creative mechanical personality to cater to the more discerning wearer. “These are products you immediately recognise as unique in their kind,” continues Ruben. “It is such a special, distinctive and complex product, but at the same time, when you see it on the wrist or hold it in your hands, it conveys something. It feels simple, almost. Its shapes, its harmony and its colours make you feel good, bringing a sense of pleasure and tranquillity.”
Think smaller dimensions, softer and more rounded edges and a more subtle and harmonious colour palette, its new direction is overtly clear in the brand’s first model, the Cinquanta. Inspired by the joie de vivre of the 1950s, when the world was rediscovering peace, it plays on both the Italian economic boom, where everyday objects became works of art, and roaring America with space cars, the ‘jet age’ and juke boxes. As such, it boasts a mechanical jumping hour display and soft round case, while a crown at 12 gives the architectural design a strong profile. We’re also particularly big fans of its minty-fresh dial.
The Bauhaus model, on the other hand, takes after the iconic minimalistic and geometric style for design and architecture. Slightly less frivolous than the Cinquanta, yet still brilliantly unique, its black and grey colour palette offers a more serious look. Both, however, stand out from the masses with a seven-part stainless steel case measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.3mm in height, with strongly curved and stepped lugs. The middle case for the Cinquanta is light brushed stainless steel, while the Bauhaus gets a gunmetal grey coating, and a sapphire crystal on top protects the dial. “We aimed to differentiate the models in a few small but significant details that would give each version a distinct appearance,” explains Ruben. “The inspiration, of course, comes from the names of the two versions: the Cinquanta reflects the colours, fonts and elements of the Dolce Vita in Italy during the 1950s, while the Bauhaus is inspired by the simplicity and purity of design from the Bauhaus movement.”
Enclosed within the case is the G100 automatic movement crafted by La Joux-Perret which, operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, offers an impressive power reserve of 68 hours. The transparent caseback provides a view of the movement, which features a custom-designed Gagà Laboratorio rotor with a partially open-worked design and a charcoal finish, while the movement itself is elegantly adorned with details such as Côtes de Genève, perlage and other refined details. Finishing touches include handmade Safiano leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle adorned with the brand’s logo, with the collection now available online, as well as in stores in Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Kuwait, the UK, France and Hong Kong. And that’s just the start. “Mo and I are both creative, and it’s hard for us to hold back our creativity,” concludes Ruben. “It’s certain that with the right timing, you will see new designs, especially since the focus of Gagà Laboratorio is precisely on design. In the coming months there will be plenty of excitement, and everyone who purchases a Gagà Laboratorio watch will be part of a journey where each step is carefully planned in every detail, never left to chance.”
