Hope is a powerful force. I mean, without it, we’re pretty much screwed. If you want to destroy someone, take away their hope, right? We all need that sliver of light at the end of the tunnel to keep on keepin’ on. Hope buoyed the artists, designers and entrepreneurs whose talents had been diverted to fortifying the ephemera of war: the design of aircraft instruments and tool watches intended to help support the efforts of military men in active and often deadly service formed an unlikely foundation of hope: an optimistic anticipation for accessories whose chance to delight and enliven would eventually come.
And of course it did. It came in the form of the first Premier collection, an exceptionally elegant and beautiful designed family of timepieces that shone a light on the ability of human beings to create beautiful, mechanically wonderful objects and to turn a back on dark, war-tainted years.
Willy Breitling understood the power of hope
Known for his impeccable sense of style, Breitling was quick to identify the public’s longing for sophisticated and glamorous products. Although already producing chronographs, Breitling went above and beyond by introducing the Premier collection, a unique range of watches designed specifically for a discerning and fashionable audience. As the curtain fell on years of destruction, the Breitling brothers were eager to anticipate a time when optimism, hope and confidence would return.
Hope is best when it is not dashed, and better still when it endures and flourishes. I mean, we can’t really argue with that, right?
Here at the GMT GCC team, we’ve been feeling exceptionally hopeful. Fresh from our triumphant first edition that was launched in tandem with the greatest global event our region has ever hosted, football fever has segued into something else – a quiet conviction that this is the right place, and we are in the right time.
It is therefore particularly satisfying that the watch collection we celebrate on our front cover and within these pages is a collection that was born in a time when hope was so vitally important.
Today, optimism is flourishing again. We’ve – for the most part – put the pandemic years behind us. Confidence has returned. Things are getting better.
Premier moment
After spending some time in the shadow of the iconic Navitimer, which is nearly ten years its junior, the Premier has gradually emerged back into the limelight. Introduced in 1943, this Breitling timepiece has earned the title of the most sought-after Breitling chronograph in the brand’s illustrious 80-year history, thanks to its consistent performance. Today, with the introduction of seven new models (five with steel cases and two with 18K red gold cases), all equipped with the advanced Breitling Manufacture Caliber B01, the Premier has reached an unprecedented milestone in its journey.
BREITLING: KING OF THE CHRONOGRAPH
Few companies have shown such consistency throughout their history. Breitling was born in 1884 as a chronometry specialist and remains so in 2023. Did Léon Breitling foresee such longevity for the firm that still bears his name? Without attributing any apocryphal intentions to this founding father, there is no doubt that the extraordinary durability of the family management enabled his vision to live on: from 1884 to almost 1980 – meaning almost a century – only three generations of Breitling succeeded one another in establishing their brand at the peak of sports chronograph expertise.
A textbook case
The Premier model serves as a perfect illustration of this evolution. Conceived precisely 80 years ago, in 1943, the chronograph had already been around for some time. However, a young Willy Breitling, who was not yet 30 years old at the time, recognized the need for this practical horological device to evolve into a more refined and sophisticated watchmaking product. He understood that pilots, drivers, and athletes who were outfitted by Breitling also desired to sport their own chronograph wristwatch outside of their professional settings. Thus, he aimed to combine practicality with elegance and famously declared, “When a man wears his watch, it is the indisputable mark of impeccable taste.” The Premier was born out of this hopeful vision.
What else did pre-war chronographs require to propel them into this new era? Technically, not much. The first pusher was the usual one and Breitling had already invented the second zero-resetting pusher, which became a standard fixture. The split-seconds function had long since been integrated thanks to Breitling’s close ties with the famous movement manufacturer Venus. Aesthetically however, Premier represented a small revolution for the chronograph, as the case morphed from steel to solid gold – a bold move for a sporty complication model. The dial was the object of particular care, featuring new hour-markers and more elaborate dial printing. The level of finishing had been taken a step further, without compromising on legibility. Finally, the Premier came in a case measuring as much as 38mm in diameter – a likewise now standard size that was unconventional for an era which was all about 34mm models.
Endowed with this DNA, the Premier has found its way through the decades – variously equipped with a split-seconds mechanism (Duograph) or a complete calendar (Datora) – until its big comeback in 2018, subsequently taking onboard Caliber B09 in 2021 and then todayʹs must-have Caliber B01, in new gold or steel versions.
B01: THE FIRST 100% IN-HOUSE CALIBER
The turn of the millennium was more than merely symbolic for Breitling: in 2001, the brand became a full-fledged Manufacture. A brand-new building was built in the heart of the ultimate watchmaking city, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Its unusual name – Breitling Chronométrie – reflects the quest for precision that still drives the brand. Ultra-modern and equipped with state-of-the-art design, production, assembly and testing instruments, it enabled Breitling to have its entire production certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) – an unprecedented achievement.
However, the most important thing that happened in 2009 was the unveiling of Breitling’s first 100% in-house calibre, simply named B01. While it was of course a chronograph movement, its performance far surpassed the standards of the time. Endowed with a column wheel, a vertical clutch and a power reserve of more than 70 hours ensuring enhanced regularity of rate, this new caliber was designed to offer maximum functionality and safety. Breitling also designed it to be easy to manufacture and use, notably with a patented self-centering device for the zero-resetting hammers and an exclusive index regulating system enabling the watch to be quickly customized to its wearer. The intelligent architecture of the B01 also simplifies its maintenance.
The latest iteration of Caliber B01 features a slimmer profile and a more compact oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire caseback of the new Premier collection. The movement remains guaranteed for five years and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. In keeping with Willy Breitling’s desire to com- bine functionality with elegance, the Premier is water-resistant to 100m (10 bar).
A GOLDEN DOUBLE
Following its success with a silver-tone dial, the Premier B01 returns with its 18K red gold case in two new interpretations. They share the same original cream-coloured dial recalling the first iterations of the timepiece in the 1940s.
The hours and minutes hands are as previously coated with luminescent material to ensure their legibility in all circumstances. To assert its sporty character, the tip of the seconds hand is red, in line with the associated “Tachymeter” scale appearing between 12 and 1 o’clock.
While the luminescent hour-markers have been replaced by elegant applied gold-plated counter- parts, the font is exactly the same as on the original Premier models. The counters are still sunburst and the inner bezel ring bears a double scale typical of the Premier (tachymeter at the top, seconds below). In tune with the times, the timepiece features a date window at 6 o’clock, surrounded by a gold-toned decorative rim.
This new reference is teamed with a brown leather strap or a particularly supple and comfort- able seven-link red gold bracelet, both secured by a gold folding clasp.
FIVE-POWER STEEL
The Premier B01 Chronograph 42 is currently available in a few rare versions with steel cases that set the stage for its revival: bottle green dial with gray counters, blue with black counters, panda and reverse panda, as well as a mouse gray.
Breitling has expanded its collection with an impressive five new references, providing customers with a vast array of options. Each model can be paired with either an alligator strap or a seven-link steel bracelet, both featuring a double- or triple-blade folding clasp. All five models boast a sapphire crystal caseback, which enables the wearer to marvel at the intricacies of the Caliber B01 movement embellished with Côtes de Genève. Additionally, the timepieces share a 100% monochrome design, with the dial and counters displaying the same colour.
Some dial shades featuring a resolutely vintage vibe will immediately delight fans of early Premier models. Such will be the case for the cream-coloured dial, similar to the version with a red gold case, but with a steel case giving it a new gleam. Likewise for the salmon pink dial, one of this year’s stellar colours appreciated for its retro touch that remains relatively rare on the watchmaking scene.
For devotees of contemporary watches, Breitling is unveiling a full black version that is a first within the Premier collection. Worn on a leather strap in the same colour, the model exudes a sophisticated and powerful aesthetic evoking the racing spirit of the first chronographs developed by Breitling almost 140 years ago.
Finally, for those who prefer a bolder, more avant-garde aesthetic, Breitling has developed two navy blue and sparkling green variations of which every subtle nuance plays across the surface of a sunburst dial. The idea of a sunburst, reflecting rays of sunlight, is a particularly satisfying metaphor for the concept of hope. 80 years on, we’re confident that the Breitling brothers, whose work straddled such wildly divergent eras, would agree, that things turned out ok in the end.
Original article in GMT Magazine written by Olivier Muller.
Additional text as appears above written by Jola Chudy.
