The Bell & Ross Cyber Skull Bronze is the latest phase in the brand’s love affair with this arresting symbol – GMT GCC takes a deep dive into what makes this memento mori so appealing.
The skull is a motif whose symbolism has reverberated through the ages – skulls have been part of humanity’s language of art, culture, magic and ritual almost as long as our species has had them. From ancient civilisations drawing on skull imagery (and often the skulls themselves) to 21st-century fashion designers borrowing from this 22-piece construction of bone and cartilage, the skull is a rich source of inspiration for creators, makers and inventors.
Watchmakers too, it seems, can’t resist a charismatic cranium.
In the case of Bell & Ross, the fascination with the eighth largest bone in our body has endured since 2009 when the company launched an entire collection in homage to this emblematic form.
“This watch is a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking and incorporating modern technology and design into their creations.”
Let’s start with the most eye-catching aspect of this watch: the ‘cyber skull’. The Bell & Ross Cyber Skull Bronze features a bronze skull case, which is a nod to the brand’s heritage in creating high-quality, reliable instruments for aviation and military use. The bronze used for the case has been treated to develop a unique patina, ensuring that no two watches will look exactly the same. The skull itself is a modern interpretation of the classic skull symbol, also often associated with pirates and the occult. Arrr, indeed.
A symbol of death and rebirth, the skull has come to represent a wide range of ideas, from power and mortality to protection and good luck. But this watch is not just a statement piece talisman. It is also a highly functional timepiece, equipped with the BR-CAL.210 calibre. This movement is a 100% manufacturer mechanism, its manual winding activating an automaton element. By turning the crown, the jaw of the skull comes alive and seems to almost sneer – the Cyber Skull laughing in the face of death itself.
The Skull family is the first Bell & Ross watch to feature an automaton, a complication originating from the mechanisms that appeared in Europe in the 14th century. On the Cyber Skull Bronze, the skull is inserted between two sapphire crystal plates as if floating in the centre of the case, which itself evokes the angular fuselage of a stealth aircraft, which is invisible to radar.
The BR-CAL.210 calibre is cleverly concealed behind the skull. Plates and bridges follow the shape of the skull and extend under the four femurs. Only a few interesting technical parts remain visible, in particular certain gear trains and the spiral balance wheel. This element, located at twelve o’clock, symbolises the brain of this skull, full of life.
In this sense, the skull serves as a reminder of the inevitability of death and the preciousness of life.
However, the skull also represents a symbol of resilience, strength, and survival. Despite its association with death, the skull remains a symbol of life’s enduring spirit. In this sense, it’s a testament to the power of life, and the timeless cycle of birth, death, and rebirth that is the foundation of the human experience.
In the realm of philosophy, the skull has been used as a metaphor for the idea that all things are fleeting and that our time on earth is limited, acting as a reminder of the importance of living life to the fullest and making the most of every moment. Whether viewed as a symbol of death or as a symbol of life, the skull remains an enduring and powerful icon that continues to captivate the human imagination.
One of the most famous examples of skulls in fashion is the skull print scarf designed by Alexander McQueen. This iconic piece of fashion history has been worn by celebrities and style icons, becoming synonymous with McQueen’s edgy, rebellious aesthetic. In addition to their use in fashion and accessories, skulls have also been featured in luxury goods and homeware, such as skull-shaped candlesticks, vases, and even furniture. This use of skulls in luxury design highlights their versatility as a symbol and their ability to add a touch of dark, gothic glamour to any space.
Today, the new Cyber Skull Bronze takes up the square case with sharp edges and bevelled corners in a bronze version. The golden skull gives a very rock ‘n’ roll look to this timepiece, which we could easily imagine on the wrist of a rock star.
While skulls have been used in fashion and luxury for many years, they continue to hold a powerful, if sometimes controversial, meaning. For some, the skull is a symbol of death and the macabre, while for others it represents power, strength, and the defiance of societal norms.
Regardless of the interpretation, one thing is clear: the skull remains a timeless and enduring symbol that continues to inspire designers and captivate audiences in the world of fashion and luxury. From ancient civilizations to contemporary designers, the skull has maintained its place in the annals of history as a powerful and enduring symbol of mortality, power, and rebellion.
