Patek Philippe references 5260, 5208 and 5374 from the Original Owner Collection

First Hands

Provenance is the auction world’s favourite word, but it rarely comes this clean. Sotheby’s has announced The Original Owner Collection — thirty Patek Philippe watches, every one bought new and kept by a single, unnamed collector — to headline its Important Watches sale in New York on 7 December, with expectations north of $9 million. Most were acquired through Tiffany & Co., extending a retail partnership that dates to 1851, and several have never appeared at auction anywhere.

The top lot is the reference 5374/300P-001, a platinum minute repeater with perpetual calendar set with baguette diamonds and sapphires, estimated at $2.5–5 million and offered publicly for the first time. Close behind comes a watch collectors have discussed more often than seen: the 5260/355R Aquanaut Luce Rainbow, a pink gold minute repeater ringed with 52 multicoloured baguette sapphires, at $1.4–2.8 million — another auction debut. A 5208R triple complication carries a $900,000–1.8 million estimate.

Patek Philippe ref. 5374/300P-001 minute repeater perpetual calendar
Reference 5374/300P-001 — platinum, baguette-set, and never before at auction
Patek Philippe ref. 5260/355R Aquanaut Luce Rainbow minute repeater
The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow: 52 multicoloured baguette sapphires around a minute repeater

Then there is the blue dial. The collection includes a 5711/1A-018 Nautilus in Tiffany Blue, one of just 170 made in 2022 for the partnership’s 170th anniversary, estimated at $1–1.6 million. Tiffany-signed examples of the Aquanaut Travel Time and the new Cubitus — both auction first-timers — and a gem-set 7118 Nautilus carrying 1,500 diamonds round out the headline acts.

Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 with Tiffany Blue dial
One of 170: the Nautilus 5711/1A-018 in Tiffany Blue

As Sotheby’s Leigh Safar put it, watches retained by their original owners carry “a level of provenance and authenticity that cannot be replicated.” For Gulf collectors who have watched December’s New York sales become appointment viewing, the message is simple: the freshest collection of modern Pateks in years is about to meet the open market.

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